{"id":7460,"date":"2019-11-26T07:47:41","date_gmt":"2019-11-26T07:47:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/?p=7460"},"modified":"2019-11-26T07:47:41","modified_gmt":"2019-11-26T07:47:41","slug":"how-to-activate-vw-acc-with-vas-5054a-odis%ef%bc%9f","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/how-to-activate-vw-acc-with-vas-5054a-odis%ef%bc%9f\/","title":{"rendered":"How to activate VW ACC with VAS 5054A + ODIS\uff1f"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>You should have a decent <a href=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/goods-5099-New+VAS+5054+Plus+ODIS+Without+Bluetooth+and+OKI+Chip.html\">VAS5054A<\/a> head, ODIS, and ODIS online account.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>You need FEC code for ACC.<\/p>\n<p>If your car didn\u2019t have that from factory, ODIS is useless.<\/p>\n<p>You need radar with special patched firmware that will accept non-official generated FEC code.<\/p>\n<p>Or put round LRR radar and just remove CP, which if you have a new 3Q0 windshield camera wont communicate with it.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>The quest for the exclusive USA ACC retrofit\u2026<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Well it\u2019s been some time since I decided to tackle something\u2026 but I\u2019ve never been one to shy away from a challenge assuming I have the time to submit myself to the proper research.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Having been many years, since first thinking about retrofitting ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) or otherwise known as \u201cAutomatic Distance System\u201d or \u201cCruise Radar\u2026\u201d I gave up for a while having realized it was going to be a painful experience trying to switch out the entire ABS block with an ACC Programmed device, plus then the retrofit of all the pieces\u2026 The new grille badge, the radar bracket assembly, the Radar itself, the wires, and then the ABS\u2026.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Well\u2026 I had to do some maintenance on the ol\u2019 girl this weekend anyways, and replaced the subframe bolts underneath as well as tightening up everything (which btw\u2026 ECS at one point said the factory torque spec is 81NM + 1\/4 turn on these bolts, and while that may be true on other vehicles that is incorrect for the CC). The correct Torque spec is 70NM + 1\/2 turn\u2026 but i digress\u2026.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I decided to pull off the front grille and take a closer examination at the ACC project\u2026. then I took off the old VW Badge on the front, and put in the special \u201cACC\u201d VW badge and looked at the mounting for the radar itself to understand how it all fit together. Turns out you need 6 brackets to mount the radar<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>3x \u2013 3C0-907-179-A and<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>3x \u2013 3C0-907-179-B<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In addition to the radar unit itself.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Well I had 1 of each bracket, and decided to do a sample fit, and it worked. Then I looked up all the wiring, and already had a harness made from before\u2026 wasn\u2019t the complex. A Fuse wire, a Ground, CAN Hi, CAN Low, and a wire to the ECM or the Steering Column Control Module (either or).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Ok\u2026 well what about the ABS??? (Remember\u2026. the ABS software has to be able to support ACC).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>As it turns out, it appears that you can trick the ABS into believing it\u2019s \u201ca different ABS\u201d by over writing to the EEPROM of the ABS a few key HEX values, and then using an official <a href=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/goods-5100-New+VAS+5054+Plus+ODIS+With+OKI+Chip+Without+Bluetooth.html\">VAS-5054A<\/a> device, flashing a firmware to it. This can be done with any \u201crevision 25\u201d software ABS in the USA.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I have not done this yet, but I plan to\u2026. the trick will be removing the \u201celectronic\u201d portion of the ABS module, without removing \/ disconnecting the ABS itself. This will be done by carefully removing 4 torx screws from the plastic electric housing side, and then gently prying off the cover to reveal the board and solenoids of the unit. From here\u2026 I am uncertain if the EEPROM will be exposed at this point, or if de-soldering the board from the housing will be required to access the other side of the control board. I will update once I make it this far. I am then also uncertain if I can use my special programming tools to read the EEPROM while it\u2019s still connected to the board, or if i will have to de-solder it to read it. Thankfully, I purchased a high powered electronics lighted magnifying glass for this type of work. From there, it will be a matter of saving off the original EEPROM in case this doesn\u2019t work (i can just reflash it)\u2026 and then flashing the ABS with an official VAG update, then adjusting some settings with VAGCOM.<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>\u00a0<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><b>\u00a0<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If all goes well, I will have finally solved this puzzle, and figured out a way to adapt ACC on a USA model that never had it available , which at that point, the only final thing left for me to adapt will be the lane keeping camera.<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>\u00a0<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Part 1<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><b>\u00a0<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>I would want an EEPROM dump of your 17, but since I\u2019m sure you don\u2019t have the tools for that, I\u2019m guessing that\u2019s not an option. Also I don\u2019t think it would matter much. I\u2019m adapting to a 2010 VR6 4Motion model, that has already been upgraded to a 2013 Gateway and IMMO combination with no errors.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In any case I have another ABS unit lying around so I decided to take it apart before I mess with my own. Turns out that I will in fact have to de-solder the plastic housing connection points in order to expose the EEPROM chip to get a read.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/114.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7443 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/114.jpg\" alt=\"1\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/114.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/114-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/26.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7444 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/26.jpg\" alt=\"2\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/26.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/26-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/36.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7445 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/36.jpg\" alt=\"3\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/36.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/36-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/45.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7446 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/45.jpg\" alt=\"4\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/45.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/45-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/55.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7447 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/55.jpg\" alt=\"5\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/55.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/55-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/64.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7448 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/64.jpg\" alt=\"6\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/64.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/64-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Part 2<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Serious tools have arrived\u2026.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Not messing around anymore\u2026.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/74.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7449 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/74.jpg\" alt=\"7\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/74.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/74-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Ok, got the ABS electronics desoldered from the frame door, and able to expose the EEPROM (this is from the spare ABS complete assembly The was 3C0-614-109-P which I was told had previously been updated to support ACC). Sure enough, I de-soldered the EEPROM in almost no time flat with my new hot air and SMD station. Like literally heated the sucker in up in 5 seconds and bam\u2026. came right off nice and clean.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Popped it in my programmer and read out hex.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Sure enough\u2026 it was already programmed to 3C0-614-109-E and flashed. I checked out the offsets 0x2BA \u2013 0x2BF and there It was\u2026 the bits were already changed to 33 CC 33 CC 33 CC which is the necessary witchcraft needed to trick the EEPROM to take a flash of the \u201cE\u201d ABS.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>In any case I\u2019ve now walked through the procedure and saved off the EEPROM in case I need it. In theory I could just take this EEPROM chip and solder it onto my ABS board. But I think I\u2019ll go through the whole thing.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Who knows\u2026 maybe someone will want to buy this extra chip off me and convert their own? In any case here\u2019s a few pictures.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I am now waiting on the final brackets to arrive for the rest of the radar install, and then will need to hook up the harness, disassemble my actual ABS unit, Desolder the EEPROM, write the hex, re-install it, then flash it with a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/goods-5101-New+VAS+5054+Plus+ODIS+Bluetooth+with+OKI+Chip+Support+UDS+Protocol.html\">VAS-5054a<\/a>, then check the programming in VAGCOM programming. Fun stuff.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/84.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7450 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/84.jpg\" alt=\"8\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/84.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/84-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/94.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7451 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/94.jpg\" alt=\"9\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/94.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/94-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/104.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7452 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/104.jpg\" alt=\"10\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/104.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/104-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/115.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7453 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/115.jpg\" alt=\"11\" width=\"600\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/115.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/115-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Part 3:<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Ok Folks \u2013 I finally got this working. A few bugs yet to workout that I believe are related to the fact that I\u2019m using a B6 Platform ABS with a B7 Platform Gateway, and B7 Platform Radar. I\u2019m in the process of acquiring a B7 ABS Module that I\u2019m going to see if I can simply just add on the B6 Hydraulic unit rather than replace the whole thing\u2026.. but all of that isn\u2019t necessarily required, I\u2019m just trying to be a perfectionist mostly.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>A few things to note before I go further, You MUST have professional tools to do this retrofit. A simple CAN+HEX VCDS \/ Ross-Tech Cable (though useful) will not cut it for completion of this. You need:<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>1 \u2013 A REAL Official VW <a href=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/goods-5254-VAS+5054A+With+OKI+Chip+VW+ODIS+V301+Plus+Dell+D630+laptop+ready+to+Use.html\">VAS5054A <\/a>Head \/other decent VW Diagnostic Tool \u2013 A chinese knockoff you can get on http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/ will not cut it here. These go for anywhere between $500 \u2013 $1000 at legitimate places. You need this tool to update and flash your controllers properly. This is what the real deal looks like and should come packages as:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/123.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7454 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/123.jpg\" alt=\"12\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/123.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/123-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>2 \u2013 Legitimate VW Diagnostics \/ Engineering Software \u2013 I\u2019m not going to discuss ODIS Engineering or how you get it. But you need access to this, along with VW Official module flash files in order to code your stuff.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>3 \u2013 A Chip Programmer \u2013 I use an ELRASOFT USB Programmer. It works flawlessly \u2013 You can see previous posts above where I use this and what it looks like. It will READ \/ WRITE Electronic chips.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>4 \u2013 Wiring Diagrams \u2013 For your convenience I\u2019ve posted the 2 below for a B7 Platform (2011 and Up CC) ACC diagram. For 2010 and below, you have to add in a special relay\u2026 and honestly if you\u2019re doing the ACC upgrade, you should probably be considering upgrading your Gateway and everything else before doing this retrofit in the first place.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/13.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7455 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/13.png\" alt=\"13\" width=\"640\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/13.png 640w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/13-300x140.png 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/14.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7456 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/14.png\" alt=\"14\" width=\"640\" height=\"289\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/14.png 640w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/14-300x135.png 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>5 \u2013 Some special very thin tools to get the electronic module off the ABS without taking out the whole hydraulics unit \u2013 I used the grey ratchet pictured here and found this the easiest for me to gain access to the back lower torx screw. Specifically their are 4 T20 bolts you need to take off before the electronic module will come off the ABS.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/151.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7457 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/151.jpg\" alt=\"15\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/151.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/151-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The result of your fine work will be the culmination of this:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/161.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7458 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/161.jpg\" alt=\"16\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/161.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/161-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/171.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-7459 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/171.jpg\" alt=\"17\" width=\"600\" height=\"424\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/171.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.obd2tool.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/171-300x212.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Here\u2019s some fun facts\u2026. You don\u2019t need to replace your entire ABS Unit. Whether it\u2019s a 3C0 (2010 and under model) or a 3AA (2011 and Up model) each of them can be flashed and upgraded to support ACC + Front Assist + Full Follow Stop.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>For 3C0 ABS Pumps<\/b><\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 You must first disassemble the Electronics module from the ABS Pump via the 4 torque screws, remove it carefully from the vehicle around the brake hydraulic lines, de-solder the 42 soldering points holding the plastic housing connector to the control board, flip the board over, heat the ST EEPROM chip soldering points up using \u201cHot Air\u201d to remove the 8 pin Chip, put it in your programmer, read it out and save it (so you have your original settings for safe keeping). THEN<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>\u00a0<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Modify the HEX range \u2013 0x2BA-0x2BF to 33 CC 33 CC 33 CC<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Save the new value and write it to the chip with your programmer. Hot Air or Solder the chip back to the board, Put the board back on the plastic housing and re-solder the 42 soldering points, put the control module back into the ABS Hydraulic unit, plug it all in, then using ODIS Engineering navigate to your ABS Module and<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Flash the ABS with the file \u2013 3C0698109__0017.sgo<\/b><\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 This will convert your ABS Unit now to an E Version which supports ACC. You will need to go back through the basic settings<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Using ODIS Diagnostics or VAGCOM (though not entirely sure how to do this in VAGCOM) go through Guided Fault Faulting, and let it go through and self correct and set everything for your ABS Pump \u2013 Steering, Longitudal Access, etc. When you\u2019re done with that you should no lights on your dash indicating you have an issue with the ABS.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>For 3AA ABS Pumps<\/b><\/strong>\u00a0It\u2019s the EXACT same procedure as above except<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Modify the HEX range \u2013 0x2BA-0x2BF to 45 BA 45 BA 45 BA<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>and<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Flash the ABS with the file \u2013 3AA614109__0023.sgo<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Now using VCDS, you can start messing around with your coding. You will need to adjust a few things:<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>01 \u2013 Engine Module<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The engine Module, I forget if you go to security access or coding. Whichever it is, you\u2019ll get a little popup with some available codes. I first applied the code 16167, to remove the normal cruise, and then applied 13377 to activate the ACC (Note that 13647, although listed and tried, never worked). I had to dig for the correct code listed above.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>03 \u2013 ABS Brakes Module<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>This is the guy you just changed, and in \u201ccoding\u201d will still have your \u201cbasic code\u201d applied to it. Write this down, everybodies standard equipment is different, but the code applied here is your basic coding without ACC enabled. To enable ACC:<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>B6 Platform Take your Base Number (mine was 0000413) and add +8192 to it which adds (ACC + Front Assist). Example Math: 0000413 + 0008192 = 0008605<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>B7 Platform Take your Base Number (mine was 0000413) and add +0016384 to it which adds (ACC + Front Assist + Full ). Example Math: 0000413 + 0016384 = 0016797<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>16 \u2013 Steering wheel Module \u2013 At the moment I\u2019m using the standard cruise control steering stalk, but I am replacing it with the ACC Variable switch stalk. That being said, I got the normal cruise control stalk to work with ACC regardless. Whether you replace it or not, you need to use the following coding: 099AA70002<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>19 CAN Gateway In the installation List, make sure you tick the \u201c13-Auto Dist. Reg\u201d<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>13 \u2013 Auto Dist. Reg \u2013 This one you might have to play around with a bit. This is basically the radar you installed in the front of the car you\u2019re interfacing with. VCDS has listed all the security codes (when you go to security access) which will pop up with the codes to enter in the adaptations. If you bought a used radar like I did, it\u2019s possible everything\u2019s already turned on. But maybe not. So Check Channels 1 \u2013 13 individually supplying the security codes as written in VCDS, and enable all of them.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong><b>Note \u2013 3AA Radars can be FLASHED (downgraded) to 3C0 Radars if necessary. However, if the Hardware was a 3C0 radar, it \u201cmay not\u201d be able to be flashed upwards to a 3AA version. Do this at your own risk if you must<\/b><\/strong><strong><b>.<\/b><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The above is the most complicated stuff which I\u2019ve outlined, and which most people who have the proper tools should be able to tackle. The rest, is literally just the parts and wiring. Get a radar, the radar installation brackets, a wiring harness, and hook it all up.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<!-- AddThis Advanced Settings generic via filter on the_content --><!-- AddThis Share Buttons generic via filter on the_content -->","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>You should have a decent VAS5054A head, ODIS, and ODIS online account. &nbsp; You need FEC code for ACC. 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